Sagra reverses the 400 Highland Ave. curse

Rustic Italian restaurant succeeds where others failed

Going around town is a buzz on a hot new Italian restaurant located just a few minutes walk from Davis Square on 400 Highland Ave., called Sagra Ristorante, which opened at the end of February.

Robert DeSimone, the master chef, said everyone loves to eat. For him though, cooking food and presenting it appealingly for diners' pleasure is just plain fun.

Sagra Chef Robert DeSimone

DeSimone is a zesty bachelor with quick, sparkling eyes, flashing a welcoming smile and a sense of humor. For sometime now, he said he burned with a burning desire to open his own restaurant. Especiallly one offering unique recipes that come straight from the Eastern region of Italy; allowing him to introduce what the locals love to eat in mountainous Abruzzo bordering Le Marche.
 
Jabbing his finger in the air for emphasis, DeSimone said his goal for Sagra is to bring to Davis Square: delicious fine food at an affordable price.

Along with his brother and two other friends joining in partnership, Sagra was launched. But first, DeSimone said he had to pack up and come home from Belgium, where he was traveling and working in Europe and in Israel as professional archeologist.

Putting down his excavation shovel, leaving a deep dedication to uncover the past, he now waves a wooden stirring spoon instead, and spends nearly four hours each morning directing a staff of five doing kitchen prep-work articulating the day's menu and specials before diners arrive.

The word Sagra refers to a long-standing festival observed throughout Italy when lively historical pageantry is re-enacted with sporting events like jousting on horseback while plenty of food is spread out, he said. The menu reflects the buzz of the festival offering a variety of olive oil, delicious wine, robust cheese, freshly baked bread, pasta and pastry.   
Surprises start right on Sagra's menu, centered just under the restaurant's name are three little words: Mangia, Bevi e Taci.

I fondly recall my college days living in Rome studying architecture and art, those words mean: Eat, Drink and Shut Up, or if one is polite: be silent.
I'm most certain DeSimone would not enforce the "Taci" part for he is just as likely to bound out from the kitchen to greet and mingle with diners.

Under antipasti e fritture, there are 10 savory dishes from grilled Bruschetta brushed with garlic and olive oil, crowned with home-made sausage and melted Stracchino cheese. There are Calamari, Stuffed and Marinated Olives, and Eggplant Involtini filled with herbed Ricotta and topped with Scarmorza, layered with plum tomato sauce, all grilled to perfection.

Among five different pizza selections, is the house "Sagra Pizze," covered by Morrzarella, aged Pecorino Romano, thin sliced house-made Pancetta topped by rosemary and extra-virgin olive oil.

Listed below Insalate e Zuppe is a wide selection of Paste boasting Seafood Maccheroni served niftily with Conch shells dressed with a light seafood sauce of mussels, calamari, Maine shrimp, cherry tomatoes with a touch of ginger and fish fumet.

A delight to both the eyes and the palate are entrees like Salmone Spadellato, a plateful of pan-seared crispy skin salmon served with chickpea, celery, carrot and onion minestra. And the Maiale due Modi is a hearty serving of Le Marche and Abruzzo style grill pork with sautéed broccoli rabe.

There are plenty of selections of side dishes as well as beverage and wine to compliment your meal followed by coffee and satisfying desserts.

DeSimone scores with two North End favorites: Chicken parmesan with rigatoni and Fettucine Alfredo. The dishes are a generous homage of his tutelage under Chef Marisa Iocco, who is his mentor and still a consulting chef to Sagra. DeSimone said the two regularly discuss new menu items.

Sagra is not your typical red-sauce smothered pasta, chicken cacciatore covered by Parmigiana cheese type of restaurant that lacks finesse and subtlety. 

DeSimone said he is grateful for the support from the community as he tries to bring more authentic rustic Italian cuisine to the public.

DeSimone said he does not regret leaving archeology. He has less leisure time now but he is having far more fun living his dream. Watch him discover and present fresh recipes with style to keep the faithful diner coming time and again. For more information on Sagra call (617) 625-4200.

Read the original review as it appeared on TheAlewife.com on April 13, 2007.